Beiträge von Johan VDS

    Ok guys...confession time !






    It is..............




    none other than a ......





    eeerrrggghhhhhhhhhhhhhh................(clearing throat)

















    [COLOR="Red"]MODERN 18" K ZILDJIAN RIDE[/COLOR]






    1840 grams. Only a few years old, serial number stamp.


    As can be seen in the pic below, the previous owner wisely decided to remove the K-logo.




    Now DO compare the 18"K soundfile with the "before" soundfile of this ZBT 20" ride I hammered.


    Picture:
    http://www.cymbalholic.com/for…chmentid=138&d=1155664545




    I'm currently hammering this "beauty" into a trashy jazzride...

    I didn't record a before soundfile of the hihats sorry. they had more a rock-type of sound originally. Basically what I did was slightly raising the profile, changing the tension and lathing.






    An American drummer sent me two 20" Paiste B8 alloy cymbals (crash and ride) and asked me to convert them into a 20" Ripple Trash and an 18" Radial Trash.


    Here's a before and after clip of the ride, which is now a 20" Ripple trash.
    http://users.telenet.be/cymbzd…_into_20_Ripple_Trash.mp3


    Looks like this now:





    Here's a before and after clip of the crash, which is now a Radial Trash.
    http://users.telenet.be/cymbzd…_into_18_Radial_Trash.mp3


    Zitat

    Original von punkdrummer
    Wenn du die Beule jetzt nochmals raushaust, wird das Becken zusätzlich nochmals verbogen...und bekanntlich ist es Gift für Metall, es zu biegen...


    If the metal already has rested a while, the molecules have settled and then there's no problem with hammering it straight again.


    Take a hammer with a plastic or hard rubber head and gently hammer the metal into shape again from inside the cup, while the cymbal is upside down on a block of wood.


    You can do this because it's B8, which is sheet-alloy and hence much softer than B20.

    There is in fact a problem with "Paiste Alloy" (B15), which is the alloy used for Paiste Signature/Traditional/Sound Formula.


    There's a topic on Cymbalholic on that too. This is what I wrote there:


    Most of the cracked ones I've seen were heavier Sigs. Heavy crashes and rides. Owned by drummers with a gentle touch. They often break in places that are not even played. Several unfortunate owners of broken Sigs are convinced they didn't break during playing, but while resting. True or not, I don't know. But many of the Sig/SF/Trad cracks I've seen were illogical. With most cracked cymbals you can find the cause for the crack. Paiste B15 alloy however often cracks in mysterious ways.
    .....
    Of course only a minority of Paiste Sigs/Trads/Sound Formula's break, so there's no cause for a general alarm. But what I don't like about this alloy is that it doesn't necessarily break from abuse.
    .....


    Here's a typical example:



    In any case, most B15 is much too soft and warps much too easily. It goes out of shape as easily as brass or nickelsilver.


    I'm being sent so many warped B15 cymbals for re-hammering into proper shape again. A big part of them are hihats that don't chick properly anymore because of warps or dents. I'm not only talking about thin Paiste Trad hihats, but also about the heaviest Sigs.
    I've seen thinner Paiste Sigs and Trads that were warped so badly that they looked like they had been crushed by an elephant.


    When hammering B15 alloy cymbals, I don't have to use any force at all to create the wildest shapes.



    http://www.cymbalholic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11637

    I guess Buddler just wants to do everything in a really artisanal way from now on... no advanced mechanical principles like wheels for an old style cymbalsmith, isn't it Buddler ?

    No prob.


    I do have another VERY important tip for a beginning cymbalmith :


    ------------------------------------->














    Next time you find a ROUND anvil of 65 kg....ROLL it home instead of carrying it....then you will still be able to use your arms and hands (which are very handy if you still want to hammer cymbals)



    :D :D :D

    Zitat

    Original von buddler
    @Johan: No tips at all? :(


    You missed this one:


    Zitat

    Original von Johan VDS
    Without seeing the cymbal with my own eyes it's hard to tell what you did wrong but try to hammer the other side.


    With "my own eyes" I don't mean a pic. I'd need to take it in my own hands and then check it. But like I said: hammer the other side. You'll probably straighten it that way. But that doesn't mean the sound will have improved.

    Zitat

    Original von Nuuk
    johan, you mean you cut the circle "by hand"?

    Yes, I do. After the cutting I do a lot of filing and sanding to get the holes perfectly round and smooth.

    Zitat

    Original von Nuuk
    johan, what tool do you use to cut holes in cymbals.

    A Dremel.


    Zitat

    do you use your lathe when making cymbals smaller?

    Yes


    Zitat

    what tool do you use when working with your lathe?

    Cutting tools with carbide inserts. Ask for them in a hardware shop. You can get them in round, square, triangular shapes. The round ones are the ones I use the most.


    Zitat

    First real problem with hammering...all the tension was gone ....
    I guess I should start hammering from the other side, but I think the problem is, that the surface of the cymbal is stretched through hammering.


    Without seeing the cymbal with my own eyes it's hard to tell what you did wrong but try to hammer the other side.

    Yes. Like : )


    Well you probably have the heaviest cymbal anvil in the world.


    Actually you can make 2 or even 3 anvils from that :)


    What is that thing normally used for and is it steel or iron ?


    Price?

    Congrats, that looks excellent.


    Carrying 65.6 kg for 1,5 km.... are you the Hulk ?


    Well you'll need to do a lot of grinding to get the top curved. The curve must be something like the shape of this character: )


    Or may be just a little flatter.